IRRIGATION SYSTEM

How to Replace a Lawn Sprinkler Timer

Lawn sprinkler timers are the “brain” of your irrigation system. It tells your valves or zones when to turn on and for how long they are to run.Until approximately 15 years ago, mechanical controllers were the norm. Since then digital controllers have all but made the mechanical controllers obsolete.
Determine if you really need to replace your timer. If the timer has no power it might be circuit board failure (go ahead and replace the timer) or it might simply be a transformer failure (just replace the transformer). However, it might be a blown fuse due to a short in a field wire or solenoid, and your timer might be fine for a few more years.
Write down the existing program on the old controller. Include in your notes what days to water, what time to start watering, and how long for each station (zone). You can change the program later if you would like.
Unplug the transformer from the wall (flat square plug similar to a cell phone charger) or turn off the power to the controller at the breaker. Do not go any further until you are absolutely certain that there is no electrical power to the controller. If unsure, check the power input wires with a volt meter, or call a licensed electrician. Electrical power can seriously injure or kill you. Once you are certain you have disconnected the power, go to step #3. The wires that control the sprinkler valves are inside the controller. Now you must remove the face of the timer to manage the valve wires.
Disconnect the field wires from the controller and label each one with a piece of tape. As you remove each one, label each piece of tape#Here is a guide to how to label the wires:
The two most important wires to pay attention to are the COMMON and (if your system is run by a pump without a pressure tank) the PUMP START WIRE.
The common terminal in the controller is usually marked by the letter “C”.
The pump start terminal will be labeled either “PS” (for pump start) or “MV” (for Master Valve). NOTE: if you have a mechanical controller that you change zones by toggling the ON/OFF switch, you will have only two wires going out of the timer
Replace your timer with the same model and brand as you already have on your system. Even if you do not run your system with a pump, you may still have a master valve; therefore, label it.
Frequently, all the field wires will be a different color. This makes things easier. Simply write down which color wire relates to which terminal, (example: white is common. Red is Zone 1. Green is Zone 2, etc.).
Unscrew the old controller from the wall and mount the new one. Take care to mount it in a position that will accommodate the existing wire. If the existing wires are to short to reach the connections for the new controller, you can extend the wires and place the splices in a junction box. NOTE: If you are using a junction box outside your house, use a waterproof junction box.
Re-connect the power wires and turn on the breaker or plug in the transformer. Next, connect your zone field wires and test that every zone comes on. If you have a rain sensor (you should get one if you don’t have one on your sprinkler system already), the connection for the common and PS/MV will be different. The rain sensor will have two wires. It acts as a switch between the common and the PS/MV wires and the valve/field wires.
If you do not have PS/MV wire: Connect one of the two rain sensor wires to the common wire. Connect the other rain sensor wire to the common terminal. If your controller came with pre-installed rain sensor terminals, use those instead.
If you do have a PS/MV wire: Instead of connecting the rain sensor between the common wire and the common terminal, connect it between the PS/MV wire and the PS/MV terminal instead. This will prevent either the pump or the master valve from coming on after it rains. This is especially important in regards to pumps operated by a pump start. You do not want a pump running against as “dead head”. This means that a running pump needs to be able to discharge water or damage to the pump can occur.
Note that our system controller should be properly functioning and ready for programming. Referring to your program notes you wrote down from Step #1 (information from the old controller), program your new controller.

How to connect the Pump

I've got a dumb question. I'm hooking up a Craftsman 2 HP Lawn Sprinkler Pump. I've got everything dry fit and ready to go but I'm kind of confused on the electrical connection. It requires it's own 230 Volt connection. I've got the right type of wire and dedicated circuit, but I just can't figure out where the neutral wire connects. I've got some heavy duty 10 gauge outdoor/underground wire coming from the service panel on the side of a shed (dedicated 30 amp circuit). The wire has a ground wire, neutral wire (white), red wire (hot), black wire (hot), as you would expect. The motor on the pump has an obvious place for the ground wire and two "Lines" for the two hot leads. Where does the neutral lead go? The manual has two wiring diagrams.....neither of which apply. They both show wiring diagrams for a 230 Volt to 115 Volt Conversion which doesn't apply to the 2HP pump because it requires 230 Volts. What am I missing here?Attached is a picture showing the motor with the neutral, and hot leads connected. I'm not much of an electrician but figured I could at least connect this pump.
I've got a dumb question. I'm hooking up a Craftsman 2 HP Lawn Sprinkler Pump. I've got everything dry fit and ready to go but I'm kind of confused on the electrical connection. It requires it's own 230 Volt connection. I've got the right type of wire and dedicated circuit, but I just can't figure out where the neutral wire connects. I've got some heavy duty 10 gauge outdoor/underground wire coming from the service panel on the side of a shed (dedicated 30 amp circuit). The wire has a ground wire, neutral wire (white), red wire (hot), black wire (hot), as you would expect. The motor on the pump has an obvious place for the ground wire and two "Lines" for the two hot leads. Where does the neutral lead go? The manual has two wiring diagrams.....neither of which apply. They both show wiring diagrams for a 230 Volt to 115 Volt Conversion which doesn't apply to the 2HP pump because it requires 230 Volts. What am I missing here?Attached is a picture showing the motor with the neutral, and hot leads connected. I'm not much of an electrician but figured I could at least connect this pump.
"Pure" 240 volt loads, like a motor or heater, do not use a neutral connection. You have 2 hots and a ground. In this case, you only needed 10.2 wg, but you have 10/3 wg. Just tape off the neutral wire.When you see a 4 wire hookup, like a stove or dryer, it is because those devices used 120/240. That is , the big loads ( heaters) are 240, but smaller items like a motor or clock , and control circuits, are set up at 120, so you have to have the 2 hots PLUS the neutral.
Your connection is unsafe:You are supposed to have a clamp holding that cable in place. If you get a standard NonMetallic clamp you can discard the nut and screw it into the threaded hole in the pump. You may have trouble getting that 10-3 UF into a 1/2" connector.Without that clamp, the threads of that hole will eventually wear through the insulation on those wires and cause a short.Those wires outside the motor housing should be pulled in with the cable and pruned to fit in the housing. There should be no wires visible outside the housing. The outside sheath should be visible inside the motor housing.You will need to trim and carefully form those wires to fit them to the terminals.If you need more room, you can mount a small box or a conduit body to that same hole. The box or conduit body would give you space for longer wires from the cable and make it easier to connect them. You could also terminate that white wire in the conduit body. I find that a 3/4" plastic conduit body has lots of room, but you would need to provide a 1/2" adapter to fit the motor.

A big thanks for all of the quick replies! What you have described makes perfect sense. I realize now I only needed 10/2 but I had used the 10/3 to run the power from my house out to a separate panel on the side of the shed so I was just using the wire I already had lying around. Regarding the comments about the connection being unsafe (wires outside), you are correct. I was just trying to do a "dry run" of everything including wiring and all of the plumbing connections (unions, foot valves, etc.) before I did everything final (all power is currently turned off). I like the idea of mounting some type of small union box just outside of the threaded connection on the motor to give me a little more room to work with that wire. It's some thick stuff and isn't the easiest thing to be maneuvering inside that tight space.

How to Repair a Broken Sprinkler Line

Loss of pressure, geysers, dry spots and overly saturated areas are but a few of the problems associated with broken sprinkler lines. So cast off the yoke of overpriced landscapers, gather together courage and shovel, and fix it yourself. Here's how:
Isolate where the leak is. This might require a little bit of digging, often where the water is coming out of the ground is not always the source of the leak. Once you have isolated the leak, turn off the water to that line, or area. Make sure you buy the correct diameter repair pipe and couplers, PVC pipe often has information about size and test-strength printed up and down the sides.
Dig a reasonable work space around and under the break, as you will want a bit of "play" or movement in the PVC in order to achieve a rock-solid tight fit with your repair. Clean out as much water, mud and dirt as possible. Measure approx 4 to 6 inches from break on each side and cut with a PVC cutter, be sure to wipe both ends clean of any mud. If the pipe cracks when trying to cut it, place a small amount of PVC primer to the spot where the blade touches the pipe and let it sit for a couple of seconds before applying pressure to the cutter. This will soften the pipe and make it easier to cut without cracking.
Using purple primer and the brush that comes with it, prime both of the clean sprinkler pipe ends approximately 1" down from lip of pipe end, and the insides of two straight couplers. Apply a light coat of glue to one end of the pipe and half of a straight coupler. If you use the "blue" glue, you have approximately 20 seconds to fit the couplers onto the pipe ends, clear glue is much quicker drying. Twist coupler down hard onto the pipe, there is a "stop" in the center of the coupler, you want the pipe end to butt up against that. Do the same for the other pipe end.
Cut a piece of repair pipe to fit the length of the cut you made in the sprinkler line, including the 1/2" or more of each straight coupler. With a tape measure, measure from the middle of each straight coupler to achieve the correct length. If you don't have a tape measure, lay a piece of pipe down into the trench and measure it by eye, marking with a pen or pencil for your cut.
Fit the cut piece into the couplers dry, to be sure that the fit is correct and that the resulting pipe is not bowed,from the replacement piece being too long.
Disassemble and make any necessary adjustments, until the resulting fit is perfect.
Prime both ends of your cut piece, wait 5 seconds, then apply a light layer of glue to one end of the replacement piece and inside one of the straight couplers. Twist pipe hard into coupler until you feel it stop. Wait at least a full minute for that to dry then apply glue to the remaining pipe-end and coupler. With your final fitting, you may have to pull hard on the sprinkler-line pipe, either to the side or up, in order to get the replacement pipe to slip into the coupler. Don't worry, PVC is strong. Allow all fittings and joints to dry completely (3-5 minutes) before turning water back on in that line.
Watch the area of your repair for a few minutes before you cover your hole back up.

Always wear gloves when working with PVC primer and glue.
Never store PVC in the sun, it degrades and weakens the pipe structure.
Drying times for PVC glue varies based on humidity and temperature, longer drying may be needed.
Don't get lazy when digging around the repair -- as hard as it may be to dig, you will need plenty of elbow room to work and must keep the fittings clean.
Make sure the inside of the pvc pipe that remains after you cut out the broken piece is as clean as you can get it. Even a little bit of dirt left inside can end up clogging your sprinkler heads or prevent your system from draining properly.
An easy alternative to bending the pipe to fit, is to use a "telescoping coupling"(slip fix is the common name) available at any irrigation supply house or Big Box hardware store. As any nearby fitting to the leak can be cracked by bending the pipe, a "telescoping coupling" removes this problem. Instructions on how to use the product will be included. This is how the "pros" do it.
Consider using "wet/dry" pvc solvent (glue) versus primer. Primer can easily be over used and weaken the pipe.
As some valves will leak even when in the off position.A good little trick is to use a piece of bread inside of the leaking pipe.This will stop the leak long enough for the repair to be made.

Water your plants, but water wisely!
A. Learn How to Operate Your Irrigation System Timer (see attachments)
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://polkfyn.ifas.ufl.edu/images/calibr1.jpg&imgrefurl=http://polkfyn.ifas.ufl.edu/lawn_irrigation_guide.shtml&h=480&w=553&sz=21&tbnid=N30EU-vZxzgJ::&tbnh=115&tbnw=133&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dpump%2B%2Btimer%2Birrigation%2Bdiagram&sa=X&oi=image_result&resnum=3&ct=image&cd=1
Knowing how to use your irrigation timer is a must if you are going to water wisely. Make sure that you keep the directions for operating your irrigation timer in a place where you can find them from year to year. You may forget how to program the timer over a period of several months. If you can’t find the directions, contact an irrigation supply company such as Polk Pump or Lakeland Irrigation. If you tell them the make and model of the timer, they should be able to give you a copy of the directions. You also could check with a neighbor, your homeowner’s association, the builder or on the manufacturer’s Web Site.
Most timers allow you to: select watering day(s), select time of day to water, select number of minutes the irrigation will run for each zone and allow you to put the system on automatic or manual.
You should have a rainfall sensor on the system that deactivates the timer when rain has occurred recently.
B. Check the Irrigation System for any Maintenance Problems
Now that you know how to operate the timer, you can turn the system on with the manual control and check for broken sprinkler heads, broken pipes and emitters that are not working properly.
Make adjustments so sprinklers are not irrigating the driveway, sidewalk or road.
Repairing PVC pipes and sprinkler heads is not difficult - most parts can be found at retail hardware stores. The employees at these stores are usually willing to give advice.
C. Learn How to Calibrate Your Irrigation System
The calibration should be done at a time when you normally run the system, because water pressure can vary during the day and wind can become a problem later in the day.
Randomly place flat-bottomed containers (like coffee cans or tuna fish cans) in one irrigation zone at a time and run irrigation for fifteen minutes.
If you have a hose end sprinkler to water your turf, place the containers in a straight line from the sprinkler to the edge of the watering pattern.
Measure the amount of water in each dish with a ruler. Add all of the amounts together and divide by the number of containers which gives you the average for all of the containers. Multiply this figure by four and that will give you the amount of water your system is applying per hour.
After you calibrate your irrigation system, use Table 1 below to determine the amount of time that you need to run your system. For example, if your irrigation system is applying 1 inch per hour and you want to apply 1 inch, run the system for 60 minutes.

D. Irrigation Needed for Newly Established Turf (sandy ridge soils)

Apply 0.25 inches water at least twice per day for the first week (as per Table 1) - once in the morning and once in the afternoon for approximately 5-10 days or until the sod is held fast to the ground (more applications per day may be needed if leaves wilt). The Southwest Florida Water Management District will allow you to water daily before 10:00 a.m. and after 4:00 p.m. for 60 days on newly established landscape plants.
For weeks 2 and 3, water every other day with 0.25 inches - more often if grass blades wilt.
For weeks 4-6 water deeply (3/4 to 1 inch) every other day. Probably 1 inch for the deep sands in northeast Polk County.
By week 7, water 3/4 to 1 inch on an as needed basis (probably 1 inch twice per week depending on rainfall). You need to keep in mind that there are many variables which can effect the required amount of water and the frequency such as soil type, grass, type, shade, etc.
E. Irrigation Needed for Established Lawns (sandy ridge soils)
Apply 1 inch irrigation when the turf is at the “time to water” stage (Figure 1) Signs of wilt are: footprints or tire tracks remain in the grass long after being made, many leaf blades folded in half and soil samples from the root zone are dry. When the leaf blades are totally folded over or at the drought stage (Figure 1), then permanent damage is beginning to occur. Bahiagrass will recover, but St. Augustinegrass may be permanently damaged.

One inch of irrigation or rainfall in ridge sandy soil should wet the soil 12 inches deep which is the entire root zone of most grasses. Any more than 1 inch at one time is wasted and washes fertilizer and chemicals into the aquifer. Less than 1 inch applied daily or more often causes the roots to grow close to the surface and become more susceptible to drought damage.
Do not apply water again until stress symptoms are noticeable. Typically, you will need to make 2 waterings per week in the summer time and once every 10-14 days or less in the winter. Of course, water restrictions allow watering no more than twice per week. If you build drought tolerance into your St. Augustinegrass through good management practices, then you should not need to water (1 inch) more than twice per week in the summer months to keep your lawn looking good.
F. Improving Drought Tolerance in Your Lawn (sandy ridge soils)
Less frequent, longer irrigations will assist in establishing a deeper, more viable root system. Many people rely on their automatic sprinkler systems to apply small amounts of water several times per week to their lawn. This practice is actually detrimental to the lawn because it promotes a lawn with shallow roots that requires more water and one that cannot withstand drought stress.
Proper mowing is important for improving the drought tolerance of your lawn. St. Augustine cultivars Floratam, Bitter Blue, Floratine, or Floralawn should be mowed at 3.5 to 4 inches with a sharp blade and bahiagrass should be mowed at 3 to 4 inches. A taller grass will produce and store more carbohydrates which makes the grass more tolerant under stress. A jagged cut with a dull mower blade increases the cut area at the end of the leaf blade, which results in greater water loss and a weaker, less drought tolerant grass.
Fertilize wisely. Do not over-fertilize with nitrogen. Excessive nitrogen increases leaf growth but root growth is reduced. Drought conditioning can only be accomplished by applying just enough nitrogen to obtain a small but continuous amount of growth. Use a fertilizer that has similar amounts of nitrogen and potassium such as a 15-5-15 (15% nitrogen, 5% phosphorous and 15% potassium) or 15-0-15 with 30-50% slow release nitrogen. Only use the 15-0-15 if a soil test indicates adequate phosphorous in your soil. You may even want to make a separate application of just potassium in the fall, because potassium builds strong root systems which will better tolerate drought conditions.
Apply chemicals to lawns wisely, because they can add the additional stress of phytotoxicity (chemical damage to plants). A healthy vigorous growing turfgrass is the best defense against insects, weeds and diseases.
Check the following circulars for more detailed lawn care information (available at the Extension Office or from the Internet.
Improving Drought Tolerance in Your Lawn - Fact Sheet ENH57
Fertilization and Irrigation Needs for Florida Lawns and Landscapes- ENH860
Reduced Irrigation of St. Turfgrass in the Tampa Bay area - AE264
Water Requirements of Florida Turfgrasses - Bulletin 200
Let Your Lawn Tell You When to Water - OH 60
Watering Your Florida Lawn - ENH9
How to Calibrate Your Sprinkler System - ENH61
Establishing Your Florida Lawn - ENH3
St. Augustine Grass for Florida Lawns - ENH5
Managing Your Florida Lawn Under Drought Conditions - ENH157
Bahiagrass for Florida Lawns - ENH6
Disease Control in Turf: Key for Identification of Turf Diseases - PDMG-V2-13
Insect Pest Management on Turfgrasses - ENY300
Disease Control in Turf: Common Turf Diseases - PDMG-V2-14
Turfgrass Disease Management - SS-PLP-14

How to Calibrate Your Sprinkler System1

L.E. Trenholm, J. Bryan Unruh, and J.L. Cisar2
Knowing the amount of water your sprinkler system applies to your lawn is an important step in efficient water use. Most people irrigate their turf for a given number of minutes without knowing how much water they are really applying. This leads to over- or under-watering, neither of which will benefit the turf. In addition, water is becoming an increasingly scarce natural resource, and should be utilized as efficiently as possible. Calibrating will help you to apply the correct amount of water to your yard. Whether you have an in-ground system or a hose and a sprinkler, the following steps will calibrate your system:

Figure 1. Calibrating a Sprinkler System
Obtain several (5 to 10) coffee cans, tuna fish cans, or other straight-sided containers to catch the irrigation water. Containers that are 3 to 6 inches in diameter work best.
If you have an in-ground system, place the containers in one zone at a time. Scatter the cans at random within the zone (Figure 1) . Repeat the entire procedure in every zone because there may be differences in the irrigation rates. If you use a hose-end sprinkler to water your turf, place the containers in a straight line from the sprinkler to the edge of the watering pattern. Space the containers evenly.
Turn the water on for 15 minutes.
Use a ruler to measure the depth of water in each container. Note: The more precise the measurement, the better your calibration will be. For most cases, measurements to the nearest 1/8 inch are adequate.
Find the average depth of water collected in the containers (add up the depths and then divide by the number of containers).
To determine the irrigation rate in inches per hour, multiply the average depth of water times four.

Now that you know your sprinkler system irrigation rate, you can more efficiently apply water to your turf. Use Table 1 as a guide for sprinkler times. For example, if the sprinkler system applies water at the rate of 2 inches per hour and you wish to apply ¾ inches of water, then you would need to run your sprinklers for about 23 minutes.
To calculate the time of irrigating for rates not listed in Table 1 , use

equation 1.
Calibration Pointers
Try to calibrate the sprinkler system during the same time it is normally run, so that water pressures are similar.
Low water pressure can significantly reduce the amount and coverage of water applied by a sprinkler system.
Application rates normally should not exceed ¾ - 1 inch of water per irrigation.
Most irrigation controllers can be adjusted for accurate time settings. Consult your operating instructions or local sprinkler company for details.
If you use a hose-end sprinkler, a mechanical timer and shut-off switch that attaches to the faucet will help make watering more efficient.
Avoid mixing sprinkler head types. Mist heads apply more water than impact heads. Match sprinkler heads for uniform coverage.
Check the sprinkler system frequently. Replace broken sprinkler heads, clear clogged nozzles, and adjust the direction of spray as needed.
Use water efficiently; do not waste it.
For more specific information on turf irrigation, see factsheet ENH 9, "Watering Your Florida Lawn ."